Ali Musa: Life and Story of a Mountaineer

Ali Musa photoAli Musa is an inhabitant and resident of a beautiful valley Shimshal.  The valley of Shimshal is located in the most northern part of Pakistan. This valley is about 3100 meter high from the sea level and surrounded with Chinese border. Shimshal valley is 45 KM from KKH. It is famous all around the world for its natural beauty, and magnificent, splendid and attractive snow-capped high mountains.

Ali Musa On The Top Of G-II (8035m)The highly determined mountaineers of Shimshal valley have illumined Pakistan’s image in the field of mountaineering not only in Pakistan but all around the globe.  Because of this fact Shimshal has been declared and known as the nursery of climbers and mountaineers.

Ali Musa got his early education (Primary Education) in Middle School, Shimshal and proceeded to Karachi for higher education.  He returned to Shimshal valley after his Intermediate studies as the trend of visiting foreign tourist to Shimshal valley for amusement walks and for climbing, was at its peak.  He became a tourist guide and guided different tourist groups to various parts of Northern Areas.  During these adventures, Ali Musa got a chance with a French group to have a track through Baltooro Glacier (Skardu).  With hope and will, he is in the field for the achievements not only for himself but for his nation and country in the world.

Ali Musa climbing K-2 camp 2Ali Musa started climbing at the age of 18 and following are the achievements gained up to this point.

In 1995, with his two friends Ali Musa succeeded to scale the Shifkthin Sar 6050m on the basis of self-help. This peak is in front of Shimshal valley in southern side and gives a magnificent view.

1996: L.O with Siatama nangaparbat Expedition

1997:  joined a Japanese team and scaled Slili Peak 6060m in Nagar Valley. In the same year scaled Summayer Peak 5600m in Nagar with an another Japanese team.  The same year in winter, with an English friend scaled Mingling Sar 5050m in Shimshal valley.

Ali Musa k-2 C-1 6030m1998:  chance to climb G-II 8035m with a Japanese Filming group. Ali Musa and his friend Hasil were working as Assistant Cameramen with Japanese NHK team but because of bad weather the team had to decent back from 7400m hence G-II could not be scaled

1999: with a Japanese group, attempt was made for Nanga Parbat 8125m (The Killer Mountain) from the Rupal side, which is the most dangerous route of this mountain. Rarely expeditions choose this route. The group reached up to camp II, but because of unfavorable weather, the team failed to scale the peak.

2000: In the same year Alpine Club of Pakistan organized an expedition to Pir Peak 6663m in Shimshal valley. The expedition was consisting of ten climbers from Shimshal valley. The Pir Peak was first ever Pakistani Winter Expedition. The whole team members of this expedition got medal from Alpine Club of Pakistan. In this year with a Japanese group Ali Mussa scaled Santinal Peak 5330m in Naltar.

Ali Musa succeeded to scale Broad Peak 8047m (Skardu) with a famous Japanese climber Nazuka Hidagi. And scaled wine peak 5300mt chapurson

Ali Musa On The Summit Of Broad Peak (8047m) With Background k-22001:Ali Mussa once again got a chance to climb G-II 8035m with Tochigi Alpine and scaled the peak
2002: Ali Mussa scaled Mustaga-ata 7546m in China twice and this is the ever first record of a Pakistani climber. On this achievement he got YSB Green Award from Aga Khan Youth and Sports Board.
2003: Alpine Club of Pakistan nominated Ali Musa as a Deputy Leader with a Japanese team on Nanga Parbat 8125m, but after the fixation of Camp II an accident occurred which caused him to stay behind and decent.
2004: With a Swiss friend Ali Musa proceeded with a wish to scale Rakaposhi 7788m, but because of bad weather the group had to return desperately.
2005:Sovia kangri with japanes Expedition
2006: L.O With sitama nangaparbat Expedition
2007: L.O With Mashabrum Expedition
2008: Deputy Leader With Diran Expedition
2009: K-2 With North Japan Expedition High Point 80300m, unsuccessful due to Bad Weather

Author: ismailimail

Independent, civil society media featuring Ismaili Muslim community, inter and intra faith endeavors, achievements and humanitarian works.

4 thoughts

  1. No doubt, Shimshal is quite wonderful place and truly paradise for adventure lovers. Geographically it is not only place where we can witness many trekking, mini climbing and mountaineering on many peaks above 7000m but also star attraction is strong hospitality of local innocent people, breathtaking views of villages in the vicinity of such high peaks and summer pastures.

    Talking about the local people I must say “they are Snow Leopards”, due their growth in such high place, all they having strong physical fitness.

    To Ali Musa, we wish you all the best of luck for your future achievements!!!


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