By Ali Karim: From Ishkashim, we proceeded north to Khorog, the largest town and administrative capital of GBAO region of Tajikistan. This small city of 30,000 Pamiri Ismailis was where we finally found some creature comforts like decent hotels and Internet. Oh how we take these things for granted. We spent some time exploring Khorog, meeting amazingly warm Ismailis and attending a Pamiri wedding celebration.
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