We got to Khorog around noon on Saturday and are now installed at a very nice homestay just outside town. The Pamiri region is very different from the rest of Tajikistan – the people here are Ishmailis, a breakaway Shi’a sect. Every house here has a framed picture of the Aga Khan, the leader of the Ishmailis who lives in Switzerland, and the area has benefitted hugely from investment by the wealthy Aga Khan foundation. This is particularly apparent in the really excellent English that many people around here speak, far better than was common in Dushanbe. The natuve language is Pamiri, and each of the five Pamir valleys has developed related, but mutually incomprehensible forms of the language.