In German: Discoveries on the Roof of the World – The Pamir Mountains in Tajikistan attracts nearly untouched wilderness

One thought

1. translation:
   ND Top.By Ute Müller 26/06/2010 / Travel
   Discoveries on the Roof of the World
   The Pamir Mountains in Tajikistan attracts nearly untouched wilderness
   Gulandon Imomnazarowa shines all over his face. ” Welcome to paradise , ” says the 37 -year-old and shows the flowering fruit trees in her garden. Behind the white shrouded peaks of the Pamirs, the second highest mountain in the world, deep blue in the sky. We are in Chorug , the largest city of Gorno-Badakhshan region cut off , some 550 kilometers southeast of Tajikistan ‘s capital Dushanbe.

   Gulandon has prepared a sumptuous table for their guests , six neighbors have helped her . Tajikistan is a Muslim country, but like most people of the Pamir region is Gulandon Ismailitin and thus represents a comparatively liberal version of Islam . Unveiled women are usually best, and wear a small scarf “We stop here all together and let the men dictate anything, ” she says and laughs. Gulandon , who earned their money earlier than costume seamstress, doing business as the proprietor of a small hostel , her friend Nigiva operates its own store.

   Proud we are shown the photo of the Aga Khan, the spiritual leader of Ismaili Muslims . His picture hangs in every home in the Pamir Mountains , home of about 200 000 Ismaili Muslims in Tajikistan and neighboring Afghanistan. But now it is time to eat again . We sit cross-legged on cushions to the increased plaque with their typical wooden beams. By day, the bank serves as the dining table and at night for sleeping.

   The true ruler is the Aga Khan
   Knappe took 15 hours to travel from Dushanbe to Khorugh . The truck wound steadily along narrow gorges, dizzying mountain passes and crossed numerous raging mountain streams. It was fortunate that no landslide blocked the road , which is tantamount to frequent. By helicopter , the journey time reduced to 75 minutes, but the only fly in good visibility over the five-and six thousand . Outside the summer months but remain almost always clouds hanging in the peaks.

   Gulandon has built at the foot of the Pamir Mountains , a new existence. She fled with her husband from the capital during the turmoil of the civil war ( 1992-1997 ) , which broke out in Tajikistan after the collapse of the Soviet Union and the resultant power vacuum. To date , the Central Asian country has not recovered from that , according to statistics is one of Tajikistan ‘s poorest countries in the world .

   At least in Chorug with its manicured gardens of which little is felt. Even President Emomali Rakhmonov , who ruled the country for eighteen years with an iron hand , has an impressive summer residence here , right next to the botanical garden. The residents are proud of was their ” University of Central Asia , “which also was built by the Aga Khan Foundation . The Aga Khan was also there , who had flown in during the civil war food in the remote region. For the people here , he is the true ruler .

   “We owe him much, ” says taxi driver Yusuf Bakthaliew . Like Gulandon he has managed to earn an extra income with tourism . Unlike in the nearby Himalayas stray so far few visitors here , nor the rough country is one tip for adventure tourists , mountaineers rises – on the northwest edge of the Pamir Mountains , the Ismoil Somoni (formerly Peak Stalin) with a height of 7495 meters – and Hunters.

   In the remote high mountains between Tajikistan and Afghanistan, there should be some high stocks of the legendary Marco Polo sheep , named after the famous world traveler in the 13th Century by the Pamir and was first described as “wild animals with enormous horns . ” Meanwhile, the odd sheep at risk of extinction and are under protection, but to the payment of about $ 20,000 you get a hunting license – it is no different than in most other CIS countries. The foreign exchange shortage of hunting permits wealthy from abroad to go in almost pristine nature havens “hunting” .

   Hub of the cultures
   The next day we start our trip to the Pamir Mountains , which mark the Tajiks ‘ Bam -I- Danja “the” Roof of the World . ” Although we make no Marco Polo sheep, but many ordinary flocks of sheep crossing the rocky slopes. It is always along the Pyandzh River, which forms the natural border with Afghanistan. During the Soviet period, the border was closed thousand kilometers long , now there are several bridges to the neighboring country where Tajiks are at least a quarter of the population . »75 years were whole families here , ” separate, says Abdol – Shagarf Mullo , umherführt groups of tourists , “who wanted to go to Afghanistan, had to fly to Moscow and pick up a visa. Now we have a consulate in Chorug and the visa issue is resolved. ”

   Who holds on the Afghan side after fierce Taliban lookout will be disappointed. In the fertile plains of the imposing peaks designate the people on their land, we see children playing , women driving asses, colorful towels to dry on the roofs of small houses , everything is completely peaceful. “The trouble spot is 1500 miles from here, ” away , “says Ahmad Shukran , Shagarfs best friend , “but unfortunately it is not known in the West . We have an image problem. ” Ahmed, an Afghan, and comes from Faizabad . He specializes in the nearby Wakhan Corridor , where clash on Afghan terrain, the mountain ranges of the Hindu Kush, the Karakoram and Pamir , for centuries a hub of peoples and cultures.

   1200 lakes that bear no name
   We stay on the Tajik side and watch the yaks that graze peacefully. Silsilamo , a farmer comes by and invites us to their meal , fresh Yakmilch and morning baked pita bread to share with her. Here hospitality is always capitalized. Just outside the town of Langar , we pass a checkpoint , he has held over the period of the Soviet Union itself. Half an hour, officials inspect the passports before we can proceed . Then there is a steep uphill , over the Khargush Pass ( 4344 meters), along rock walls , which are topped by glacial peaks. The vegetation gradually decreases , the place close contact canyons wide plateaus , the slope is sandy and wide. To the left, suddenly there is a lake just dahingesprenkelt . “He has no name , can you ” pick one , says Shagarf . The generous offer can be explained , Tajikistan has about 1,200 lakes, not everybody made it to the trouble to nominate him extra. A few miles away , always along the plateau shows up on the huge Yashilkul Lake. Emerald Green does it extend to a length of 19 kilometers , 3700 meters above sea level. No wonder that breathing is difficult , as we go to the bank. The amount of disease caused by some dizziness and nausea. But compensating the grand expanses.

   Those who want to explore the high mountains a few days, but can accommodate the small town Bulunkul . Almost looks surreal place , a few low buildings are scattered on a level of vegetation . Since a few years , there are a few so-called Homestays , simple accommodations with host families. Shagarf here comes here often , for it is the journey into this remote lunar landscape is almost a mystical experience.

   Info : Embassy of the Republic of Tajikistan, False statements . 43 , 10559 Berlin , Tel : (030 ) 347 93-00 fax. : -029 , E – mail: info@botschaft-tadschikistan.de. For an entry visa is required.
   Details of the Pamir Mountains : http://www.pamirs.org , http://www.geocities.org
   The described route is available under http://www.pamirsilk.travel ,
   E – mail: info@pamirsilk.travel; information on tours through the Wakhan Corridor ahmadshukran@yahoo.com, http://www.ariaguesthouse.com
   Literature: Tajikistan, Trescher Verlag , 276 pages , 140 color photos, ISBN 978-3-89794-160-1 , € 17.95

   LikeLike

   Reply