The Precincts of Al-Azhar
To soak up the Old City’s atmosphere, stick to a short, focused visit, then head over to Azhar Park to gaze upon the capital
Mu’izzli-Din Allah Street spans the old Fatimid city from the northern gate of Bab El-Futuh to Bab El-Zuweila on the southern wall, barely two kilometers in the distance. The Islamic monuments lining this narrow street span some 800 years, an overwhelming collection bequeathed to modern Egypt by caliphs and the commoners who built them.
Entering Mu’izzli-Din at Bab El-Futuh, you encounter a series of markets, each specializing in a particular product, including lemons, onions, garlic and olives. Immediately to the right, you find the large mosque of Al-Hakim bi Amr Allah, named after the third Fatimid Caliph and incorporated into the northern fortifications built by Badr El-Gamali. In addition to a few interesting remnants of decoration, the turbulent past of this mosque is worth mentioning: At various times, it has been used as a prison for Crusaders, Salah El-Din’s stables, Napoleon’s fortress and, finally, a local school.
Past Al-Hakim, the streets narrow and become particularly busy. This area is not only a place for people to make and sell things right outside their houses or shops, but also a venue for social events including weddings and funerals. Street musicians and dancers on their way to the festivities are often willing to perform for passersby. Loud conversations, altercations and ululations fly from the top floors. This is the authentic Al-Azhar district so dear to Egyptian novelists.
Just south of Al-Hakim is a market area for metal products and coffee-shop equipment. On the right side of the street just before the second turn, visitors will find the Mosque and Sabil-Kuttab of Sulayman Agha El-Silahdar, built in 1837 and featuring a curious mixture of Ottoman, Turkish and Cairene styles.
At the corner, on the other side of Mu’izzli-Din, is Darb El-Asfar with the delightful house of coffee merchant Mustafa Ga’far. Built in 1713, it is now used as the local office of the antiquities authority. A little further along the alleyway is the completely restored Beit El-Suheimi; this complex actually consists of two houses, one built in 1648 and the other in 1796. Enjoy a leisurely visit after you’ve had a chance to rest for a while on the benches thoughtfully provided in the small square opposite Beit Mustafa Ga’far.
For a different view on history, hail a cab or hike over to nearby Al-Azhar Park, a modern-day Fatimid legacy. Gifted to Cairo by the Aga Khan, spiritual leader of the Ismaili sect whose ancestors founded Al-Qahira in 969 AD, the park was created by the Aga Khan Foundation out of a huge mound of debris in Darb Al-Ahmar neighborhood.
This immense expanse of manicured lawns and elegant royal palm trees overlooks the Salah Salem thoroughfare opposite the City of the Dead. An ambitious project that took nearly 20 years to complete, it is the largest park in the Middle East. On warm days, it is a delight to walk up the winding paths leading to the topmost point and take in the panoramic view of the nation’s capital.
If the word ‘park’ conjures up visions of French Luxembourg or the Egyptian Orman, the Aga Khan Park may come as a disappointment. Devoid of bushes, lush greenery and centuries-old trees, this bright young park is open and airy, still growing into its future splendor. It is beautifully planned, featuring a pleasant oriental restaurant and a quaint, Old World, open-air café complete with artificial lake and swimming ducks.
It is a great place for taking the children to play, have lunch and enjoy a relatively fresh atmosphere on a simmering summer’s day.
The Details
The park entrance is on Salah Salem Road, just north of the Salah Al-Din Citadel. Open from 9 am to 10 pm, Al-Azhar Park has two restaurants, Alain le notre and Studio Misr, and two cafes, one set overlooking Salah Al-Din’s Citadel and the other the minaret-filled Al-Azhar district. The park administration (tel: (02) 510-3382) can arrange group events. Admission fees: For Egyptians, LE 3 (Mon-Wed) and LE 5 (Thurs-Sun); LE 10 for foreigners every day. et
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