–excerpt–
It was only when we reached the Hunza Valley we began to see other women, in colourful shalwa-kameez, some bare-headed, walking in the streets, either with their husbands or in happy chatting groups. We puzzled over this until Baig explained that Hunza is predominantly populated by Ismailies, who practice the most moderate form of Islam.
“I’m Ismailie myself,” he told us, with a big grin. “We Ismailies are very liberal, and we are very very tolerant of tourists and western woman.”
The Ismaelie constitution is based on an allegiance to Imam Prince Karim Aga Khan IV, he said, and is the most moderate of the forms of Islam. The Aga Khan is particularly interested in eliminating poverty and advancing the status of women. His values have given rise to a tolerance of western ideals amongst the Hunza people that’s remained steady despite the fundamental resurgence. He has established hospitals, universities, communtity centres and irrigation schemes in Hunza and is adored by everyone, Baig no exception.