ALEPPO, Syria: Architectural gems spanning a sweep of human history hide behind nondescript doors in Syria’s second city. Understated carpets are prized by collectors and the cuisine incorporates ancient influences from as far away as China. Subtlety is the hallmark of Aleppo, one of the world’s richest historical sites whose inhabitants possess a quiet pride and a cosmopolitan culture that has survived Mongol destruction and steady economic decline.
The city, built around a vast medieval citadel, was wrapped in obscurity for decades by Soviet-style policies which undermined its business classes and the city’s reputation as a culinary capital of the Middle East.
But the trading hub of Silk Road fame has been witnessing a renaissance lately, driven by economic liberalization and an opening toward Turkey, Aleppo’s neighbor to the north.
Tasteful hotels and restaurants are opening up in and around the once-walled city, itself built on layers of much older ruins. Medieval districts have been renovated with the help of the Agha Khan, and other international organizations working to save the United Nations World Heritage Site.