A city of renewal and ruins
Developers are squandering Kabul’s rich architectural history and flavor
By Rahilla Zafar, an editor for NATO’s Sada-e Azadi (Voice of Freedom) newspaper in Kabul
May 13, 2007
KABUL, Afghanistan — On the outskirts of what appears to be a city on its knees, with piles of garbage, decapitated buildings and feces-filled canals, the bullet-riddled Darul Aman Palace — literally “abode of peace” — stands as a sad reminder of Kabul’s great architectural history.
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The seemingly unstoppable emergence of architectural bling is worrying too many Afghans.
“From an architectural point of view, the city is losing its identity,” said Sayed Maqbool, director of architecture at Kabul University. “It’s becoming overwhelmed with gaudy glass towers and large Pakistani-style homes. … Billions of dollars have gone into the country’s reconstruction, but very little of that went into Kabul. Restoring the city’s historic beauty was never a priority. Many people working in the Ministry of Urban Development and municipality lack a vision for the city.”
But all is not yet lost. Individuals and organizations devoted to saving Kabul’s historic neighborhoods and designs have redoubled their preservation efforts.
The Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC) is one such group. Fearing that the ancient area in the center of Kabul — known as the Old City — may be gone for good, the trust has begun restoring the old neighborhood of Asheqan wa Arefan, just south of the Kabul River. With its narrow paths, Sufi shrines and historic mosques, walking through Asheqan wa Arefan is like taking a trip among the great jewels of Kabul. This 200-year-old neighborhood is one of the few places where you can really feel the city’s serenity and charm. At one Sufi shrine, for example, a turbaned guard sits sentry near the entrance, where wooden pillars and intricate wood paneling lead the way to a place for quiet meditation.
Uncovering such beauty, however, entails digging through several feet of trash that has accumulated over two decades. In 2002, the AKTC began to dig out the trash and make the neighborhood livable again by leveling the streets and providing drainage channels, said Anna Soave, urban planner for the trust. During this process, several historic mosques and homes were uncovered, and the AKTC trained Afghan craftsmen to clean and reassemble what was left of them, she said.
Similarly, fearing ancient architectural treasures might be lost to modern developers in another area of the Old City, called Murad Khane, President Hamid Karzai turned to England’s Prince Charles for help. The two leaders collaborated with former British diplomat and author Rory Stewart to establish the Turquoise Mountain Foundation in 2006.
In its first six months, Stewart’s foundation started a School of Calligraphy, Woodwork and Ceramics in Kabul, created a development plan and began restoration of Murad Khane.
“The unique architecture found in the Old City is at risk of disappearing from property developers and neglect,” said the organization’s deputy CEO, Shoshana Coburn. “We hope that in five years’ time we will be able to rebuild and create a vibrant cultural and commercial area in the center of Kabul that attracts visitors and is a symbol of pride and Afghan cultural heritage.”
The foundation is lobbying international governments and donors to create a $45 million endowment.
Unlike the current trend of cement blockades and glass towers, the AKTC and Turquoise Mountain have promoted traditional building materials such as mud and brick. Built with strong foundations, the homes stay cool in summer and warm in winter.
Dutch architect Anne Feenstra is also helping revive the architectural spirit among Afghans. For three years, Feenstra has volunteered at Kabul University’s Department of Architecture and helps develop models that combine local materials and historical designs with contemporary architecture.
“I teach my students to not forget their country’s past in building for its future,” Feenstra said. “You can combine the beautiful Afghan building materials with contemporary architecture.”
For example, he said, his group has found that mixing mud with natural seed oil can create plaster structures that are more suitable for Kabul’s climate. They also use modern concrete “ring beam” technology so buildings are more likely to withstand earthquakes.
Feenstra’s firm has worked on several projects, including renovating the interior of the National Museum in Kabul.
But for all the effort, much of Kabul still is in desperate need of restoration. Further proof can be found just down the street from the Darul Aman Palace, where bombed-out buildings house some of the poorest of Afghans and children play soccer on the grounds. It is as if they live in the shadows of the city’s former beauty.
Ismailimail 