By Asif Noorani – The opening of Raj Rasoi in Karachi, a purely vegetarian restaurant, where they serve their fare on thali (a large rounded metallic plate, with small rounded katoris or bowls to carry daal, kari and different bhujyas, took me back to the late 50s when Pioneer Coffee House, on what was Victoria Road, introduced the thali. Those were the days when restaurants couldn’t serve meat on meatless days and the word of law was followed in letter and spirit.
Pioneer Coffee House was founded by an Ismaili gentleman, Sharif Merchant. Sharif sahib, as he was called by one and all, had started his career with the India Coffee Board in the late 30s as a coffee-taster. However, when communal riots became a common feature in Mumbai, which was otherwise a peaceful city, no Hindu was prepared to work as manager in the Mohammed Ali Road branch of the India Coffee House. The big bosses of the board asked Sharif sahib if he would take charge of the branch which was in a Muslim dominated area. He agreed.
via Food for thought: Vegetarian thali: a welcome culinary revival | Magazines | DAWN.COM.
Ismailimail 